How To Prepare For A Superbike Race: Training And Strategy – So, have you decided to go racing? First of all, congratulations! Racing can be intimidating at first, but it’s the most rewarding thing I’ve ever experienced, and I’m excited to share it with you. Before you build the grid and feel the adrenaline rush of your first start, you’ll need to equip yourself with a trusty mechanical steed fit to get you on the podium. I built my first race bike in mid-2019 to keep up with the latter part of the WMRRA racing season. Since I couldn’t find a good guide when building my bike, I thought I’d offer my thoughts and insight to help other new racers like me. Let’s get into it!
There are many things to consider when choosing a bike to race. Let’s start by finding out what “race bike” means.
How To Prepare For A Superbike Race: Training And Strategy
You’ve probably seen a race bike or two on the track, and you’ve probably noticed how visually different they are from a painter’s recorded street bike. Unlike track days, which are not timed, races have much more stringent requirements when it comes to machines. Racing organizations have these requirements to ensure that you and your fellow racers are as safe as possible on the track. There are also some requirements to prevent bicycles from stopping the track. Accidents like oil spills can take hours to clean up, which is not something anyone wants to do on race day.
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Here we have the street-ready 2020 Yamaha R6 and the HSBK SuperStock R6 from the same year.
You’ll find quite a few differences, including tires, front and rear rotors, shocks, forks, throttles, brake levers, master cylinders, bodywork, exhaust systems, and windscreens. For some reason, race bikes like to put fake stickers where the headlights should be. B.E. A full list of changes can be found on the HSBK website.
I have no plans to convert my racing bike back to a road bike, although technically it is possible. Whichever bike becomes your race bike, assume you’ll spend the rest of your time on the track (what a lucky bike!). I recommend this for several reasons. First, you no longer have to keep all your OEM street parts in a box in your garage. You can often recoup some of the costs of building a race bike by selling these parts, especially popular ones like fairings. Secondly, this means you will have much more peace of mind when modifying or working on your bike. When it comes to replacing tires, brake pads, and other common racing disposable parts, here are some race bike hacks that can make your life easier. While great on a race bike, some of these hacks aren’t recommended for the street. Lastly, consider the suspension and other track-specific setup components that might make your bike untenable on the street. Track suspension will feel like absolute crap on public roads. In the end, I think it’s much easier to assume that your bike will never see the streets again. If you plan to convert your race bike back into a road bike and sell it, make sure to let buyers know that the bike was actually a race bike.
Not all bikes are suitable for racing! Check with your local racing organization to see which bikes are allowed to race. Some bikes do not have classes in which they can be raced competitively. For example, my local racing organization does not have a competitive class for 750cc inline 4 motorcycles. The classes you can join as a beginner are also strictly limited. For the Washington Motorcycle Road Racing Association (WMRRA), beginners can compete in the 250, 250, 600, and 1000cc and under classes (but they are not allowed to race two different bikes on the same day). Typically, organizations need bikes that promote competitive and accessible racing. A 250, 300/400, 600 or 1000cc bike is a safe choice. Whatever you decide, be sure to double-check your local organization’s rule book or ask directly what classes of beginners are allowed to race. Personally, I didn’t feel ready for the liter bike madness yet, but I wasn’t. I don’t want my power to weight ratio affected by 250. Therefore, I chose the 600cc class for my first beginner season (and will be racing the 600 again for my second season). 600cc bikes also have the added benefit of being able to be set up as cripple triples if you have a racing organization. Alex Taylor, OMRRA Novice Rep, is making an adapter for the R6, and I’d like to convince him to make one for the GSXR as well. If I were to do it again, I would seriously consider starting at 400 instead of 600. Because the learning curve isn’t that steep, but it’s still powerful enough to prepare you for bigger bikes.
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One final thing about choosing the right bike — it’s a good idea to make sure the type of bike you choose has a good local environment. For example, by the end of the 2019 season, there were only five beginners in the 1000cc class, but there were still more than 20 racers in the 600 class. Racing is much more fun when there are more people competing. It may be counterintuitive, but the more racers the better. You’ll have more fun, and you’ll be more likely to meet someone just above your skill level that you can chase and learn from. If you are competing on a sponsorship contingency, the sponsor usually requires a minimum number of participants to cover the cost of the race. A good way to find out what bike sizes are popular is to ask on forums/facebook. Another way is to look at past race results if your organization uses a race timer like Race Hero or speedhive (you can also use these results to see how far ahead you are of the competition).
OK! Now that we’ve decided on a specific bike type, double-checked the rulebook, we’re ready to start buying. You can buy a racing bike right away or convert it to a street bike.
The easiest and cheapest way to build a race-ready bike is to buy a bike that’s already good to use. There are plenty of discounts on race bikes if you keep your eyes peeled, especially during the off-season. Sometimes racers are unable to race next year or have already moved to a different setup. Sales often include additional parts and accessories if someone decides to take a break or stop playing the sport. It’s common to see racing bikes for sale included with spare parts, stands, extra rims, tire warmers and sometimes even an entire spare bike!
In general, I think race bikes are generally better maintained than street bikes. Because racing bikes need to be maintained to keep them race bikes. Most riders I know change their oil and other wearable parts religiously. Some change their oil every track day (which may or may not be overkill, depending on who you ask). Failure to maintain a racing bike can have serious consequences, so racers are highly motivated to stay on top of things.
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Race bike deals can be found in many places. First, let’s look at popular racing forums like 13x.com, Craigslist, or Facebook. You’re seeing more and more of this popping up on Facebook through the Marketplace, racer groups, and race organization discussion pages. I really like Facebook. Because it forces you to put your face next to what you’re selling. That level of transparency gives me much more confidence.
I would definitely avoid a race or track bike with more than 15,000 miles on its original motor. Corky Bell, author of Maximum Boost, says every race mile is equal to 1000 miles of distance. I think that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea. Even with maintenance, racing motors are stressed enough that they don’t last as long as they do on the street.
When purchasing a race/track bike, make sure it hasn’t been stolen and is being passed around as a “race bike” to hide that fact. If you want to perform a VIN check, most dealers will find the VIN for you. I would be wary of bikes with the VIN scratched off the frame. That said, many race bikes are untitled due to the taxes associated with street registration (not required for racing). Many racing bikes are bought cheaply at auction after they crash on the street. Usually, if you want to buy a race bike, a bill of sale is enough.
Race bikes are often stupid good deals. When comparing