Drag Racing 101: A Beginner’s Guide – Cash competition is one of the real ways of competition. After all, there are no points for style and you certainly don’t have to spend hours driving around the circuit before you’re declared a winner. Instead, the quarter-mile is what it needs and the speed is right. Not too long ago, I did my first drag race on a real strip, and I was hooked. Flashing through the lights, an announcer talks about how my car should win this race, and a car next to me hits a two-step limiter on and on. In a flash of green, I cranked so hard that the wheels rattled with a sound like hitting my engine with a baseball bat. After going a quarter-mile longer than I was going, I asked our Publisher what I had done wrong. “What exactly did you do?” he answered. After that, I realized there’s a lot more to racing than starting and hitting the brakes a quarter-mile later. The more you understand about the scene, the better your willpower will perform and the less likely you’ll get a lesson from that jerk at the starting line. Here’s everything you need to know to fake it until you make it.
You pull to do your burn, you do it successfully, then you roll next to your opponent. It’s stage time. What do you do? Beginner racers like me will start scrolling until they see the light bulbs on the Christmas tree come on, one light then quickly followed by the second light. The lights of the Christmas tree are thrown by the security lights. The two sets of stage lights are called pre-stage and stage. These infrared rays are connected to sensors. When your front light cuts off the first light, the pre-stage light goes on. The pre-stage light lets you know you’re close to the starting line. After this the second beam, the stage, and it is your sign that you are placed in the front line. It’s time to light the second light on the Christmas tree.
Drag Racing 101: A Beginner’s Guide
Before the Christmas tree, the drag racers waited for someone with a flag to signal the start. Of course, things were very unsafe and that person had to be in front of two racing cars. The Christmas tree serves as the safest, most authentic way to mark the beginning. There are two types of light contracts: Pro Light and Sportsman. When both cars are scanned, the Pro light mode illuminates all three brown bulbs at once, followed by the green with a 0.400 second delay. In Sportsman mode each brown bulb lights up in turn (typically 0.500 seconds between bulbs), ending with a green light. At the top of the tree, there are two sets of double yellow bulbs to indicate the pre-stage, two for each match. The two sets below them indicate that you have hit the stage beam. Look down and you’ll see three vertical bulbs on each side. These bulbs will light up in order to prepare you for the green, which sits downwards followed by the red bulb which will indicate that you have started early and red.
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The first infrared beam sends a signal to the bulbs above the Christmas tree. When the infrared is turned off, the top two lights will turn off, indicating that you are pre-set.
After the ignition, you will roll the car forward enough to reach the starting line. The Pre-Stage Light will illuminate when the front headlights intersect the first beam. At this point, wait for the next driver to enter the Stage position before moving forward. There’s only a few inches you can go before the Stage lights come on. You can use your handbrake by pressing the release button to move forward.
When the second infrared beam is cut off, the following bulbs turn on to indicate that you are on stage. If you’re moving against someone else, don’t move until your opponent pre-stages.
The standard stage is when you turn in the starting area until both the pre-stage and stage bulbs are lit. If you turn just far enough for the stage light to flash and then stop, you are stage deep. When you come on stage, both your pre-stage and stage lights will be off, and you’ll be waiting for your opponent to flash a set of pre-stage and stage lights.
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As you move forward after you’ve staged, the pre-stage arrow becomes unobstructed. This turns on the Pre-Stage bulbs. This is the deepest you can start the race. If a timer is activated, scrolling further to turn on the phase beam will light you up.
The deep stage is where you run through the pre-stage and stage lights, then move forward until the pre-stage bulb (first bulb assembly) goes off. This technique allows your lead arrow to be ahead of the stage arrow, so you get really close to the finish line. As a result, less of your beam needs to pass through the stage beam to break the elapsed time clock. While this will improve your reaction time, it can increase your risk of red light.
Whether it’s common courtesy or a routine, the courtesy is to light the front-stage bulb, then wait for your opponent to light theirs before you both step forward to turn on the stage light. . As one of you steps forward to turn on the stage light, the other follows then you both wait for the green. As the name suggests, this is the right way to stage. In some competitions, it will be applied; so always do it.
With the different types of theater explained, now comes the green. The trick is, if you wait to see the green light to start your startup, you’ve already lost the race. The correct time to start for most cars is when you see the tail light come on before the green light. It takes about .400-to-.500 seconds for you and your car to react to the light. So, if you wait for the green light, you will be well behind your opponent and may be called by the announcer to lay on the tree.
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The shallow stage is where you advance in the starting area just enough to barely light the stage bulbs. By phasing in, you’ll leave a few extra inches to your vehicle before the timer starts ticking on your run. As a result, finer phasing will provide the best elapsed times. They may also have slower reaction times depending on how quickly you and your vehicle react. Because you give yourself more time from reaction to initiation, slow motion is a good technique if you’re red.
As explained earlier, the deep stage is when you go through the pre-stage and stage beams, then move forward until the pre-stage infrared beam is cut off. This technique allows your front tire to be ahead of the stage tire, thus getting closer to the finish line. As a result, less of your beam needs to pass through the stage beam to break the elapsed time clock. While this will improve your reaction time, it can increase your risk of a red light.
Depth of field and depth of field are all techniques used by experienced racers to fine-tune their lap times, reaction times, or simply avoid red lights. If you’re an inexperienced player, you’ll find it hard to notice such small differences that are only inches apart, all while listening to your opponent hitting his rev-limiter, the announcer talking, people who watching, getting your car ready to start, and a hundred other thoughts going through your head. The best practice is to be good at small steps. More practice will result in better results.
In addition to having a consistent stage position, be sure to practice a consistent launch process. Technologies like a two-step rev limiter or launch mode on some vehicles will improve your starting stability allowing you to work on your reaction times. Remember that sustainable startups require sustainable activities. If you’re not getting the best reaction times or 60-foot times, try making one change at a time and taking a log. Don’t change the two-stage rev ratio, tire pressure and stage position all at once and then try to determine which of the three helps or hurts performance. The bottom line is that you will make a few mistakes on your first pass. Everyone does. Don’t worry, just try to make less mistakes on the next pass. Before you know it, you’ll be an expert.
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Obviously, if you’re a drag racer, then this is second nature to you. However, beginning drag racers can benefit from knowing all the techniques available to them, what is allowed and what is not. Best view